Fashion has taken a giant leap forward in embracing size inclusivity this season. Despite Vitto’s absence, the latest statistics reveal that London has emerged as the most size-inclusive city, with an impressive representation of plus-size, mid-size, and straight-size looks. Let’s dive into the details of the report and explore the designers who are reshaping the industry.
London Leads the Way
London, known for its progressive fashion scene, has surpassed the other fashion capitals in total size diversity. This season, 1.6 percent of looks were plus-size, 9.6 percent were mid-size, and 88.8 percent were straight-size. Compared to the previous season, there has been a slight increase in size inclusivity, reflecting the fashion community’s growing commitment to diversity and representation.
Designers Making Waves
Chopova Lowena, a brand that didn’t showcase last season, climbed to the top of the size inclusivity rankings in the UK capital. Impressively, they presented 95.2 percent mid-size looks and 4.8 percent plus-size looks. They achieve this by street casting their models, breaking away from conventional norms. Palmer Harding secured the second spot, marking their entry into the top 10 for the first time. Di Petsa maintained their position in third place, while Patrick McDowell jumped from seventh to fourth. Bora Aksu rounded out the top five.
Sinéad O’Dwyer’s New Direction
Notably, Sinéad O’Dwyer, the second most size-inclusive designer in the previous ranking, did not make the list this season. Her absence was due to Vogue Runway’s failure to cover her show. However, she used this opportunity to experiment with a different format for Spring/Summer 2024. O’Dwyer presented her collection at her alma mater, the Royal College of Art, alongside a panel discussion. During the discussion, she shed light on the production processes involved in creating size-inclusive collections.
O’Dwyer emphasized the issue of education and its role in shaping the industry. She highlighted that fashion students are often given standardized mannequins and design blocks, limiting their ability to create for diverse body types. The pressures of deadlines and the pursuit of creativity sometimes result in a lack of inclusivity. O’Dwyer’s bold move to challenge the existing norms showcases her dedication to pushing boundaries and promoting size inclusivity in the industry.
Breaking Barriers with Design
Enam Asiama, a plus-size model and advocate, believes that including diverse and marginalized bodies on the runway is a powerful political statement. She praises designers like Sinéad O’Dwyer, who defy mainstream fashion norms and prioritize their audience over industry expectations. Asiama feels that these designers deserve greater recognition for their commitment to breaking free from the confines of traditional beauty standards. Unfortunately, many designers fear stepping outside this bubble, perhaps concerned that they might sacrifice popularity in the process.
Size inclusivity remains an ongoing battle in the fashion world, but the Spring/Summer 2024 report brings hope for a more inclusive future. London’s success in surpassing the size diversity benchmark sets a precedent for the rest of the industry to follow. By celebrating and supporting designers who challenge the norms, we can foster a more inclusive and diverse fashion landscape.
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