Imagine creating over 2,300 costumes for a single TV series. That’s exactly what costume designer Carlos Rosario accomplished for the FX limited series “Shōgun.” Spanning 10 episodes, this epic production required meticulous attention to detail and historical accuracy.
Rosario recalls the immense scale of the show, saying, “It was a massive. It was a huge show and a huge crew. There were consultants on set that were checking every day to make sure that the dressing of each costume was accurate for each scene.”
Set in 1600s Japan, “Shōgun” follows Yoshii Toranaga on his quest to become the shōgun, joined by his translator Lady Mariko and English ally John Blackthorne. To recreate the authentic look of the era, Rosario delved into historical paintings and consulted with experts, as limited primary sources were available.
Rosario drew inspiration from real-life counterparts of the characters, shaping their costumes accordingly. For instance, the first costume Lady Ochiba appears in was designed based on a painting of the “Lady Ochiba of that period.” Delicate layers and patterns were meticulously recreated to reflect the painting’s intricacies.
To capture the essence of the characters’ story arcs, Rosario read all 10 scripts at once, picking up on the textures and colors that mirrored their journeys. He described the clothing of the period as “rogue” and “connected with nature,” which inspired him to create costumes that were detailed and textural.
Color played a crucial role in the show’s costume design. Ishido’s army was portrayed as the gray army, while Toranaga’s army was depicted as the brown army. Although it wasn’t historically accurate for armies to wear uniform colors, Rosario believed that using these distinct hues helped the modern audience easily identify and follow the visual storytelling.
Every character’s costume was thoughtfully designed with attention to their personality and role. Toranaga donned different outfits in every scene of the first episode, showcasing his power through the use of copper and gold colors. On the other hand, Mariko’s monochromatic and lifeless clothing initially represented her dishonored past, gradually transforming into vibrant garments adorned with blooming camellias as she finds her purpose and empowerment.
As for Blackthorne’s costume evolution, Rosario aimed to create a contrast between him and the Japanese characters. Blackthorne’s wardrobe incorporated more elements of Japanese clothing as he embraced the culture, while remaining neutral, simple, and powerless in comparison to the lords and Mariko.
Reflecting on his experience on set, Rosario expressed his admiration for the level of involvement from consultants, historians, and experts. The attention to detail and dedication to authenticity on “Shōgun” was unparalleled.
The exquisite costumes created by Carlos Rosario in “Shōgun” are a testament to his expertise and unwavering commitment to bringing the characters and the story to life. With over 2,300 costumes meticulously designed and crafted, his work shines as a brilliant reflection of the 1600s Japan portrayed in the series.
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